Brussels for Beginners: What to Love, What to Avoid
July 13, 2025Read the first part here: Getting Lucky in Brussels
Truth be told, my first impression of Brussels wasn’t quite what I expected from a European city—certainly not from the capital of one of the world’s wealthiest countries. As we walked out of Brussels Midi station, what I saw was underwhelming, to say the least. In fact, it was a little worrying. It looked like a clean neighbourhood in a ‘third world country’, perhaps somewhere in the Middle East.
Quite clearly, this was the immigrant pocket of the city. A quick Google search throws up plenty of reportage labelling the area a hub of criminal activity. One report by Politico even calls Brussels Midi Europe’s most dangerous train station”.
To make matters worse, we didn’t have a hotel booking when we arrived. So, when we finally secured a room, we heaved a collective sigh of relief. While debating our next move—and in the middle of freshening up—we were suddenly greeted by torrential September rain. Thankfully, it disappeared just as quickly as it had arrived, and we stepped out with the aim of heading to Central Brussels. The goal: to check out the Grand Place.
We decided to take the metro, with the station within walking distance of our hotel. As we fumbled with the ticket machine—thanks to the language barrier—we were approached by two overly helpful men who offered us their day passes. They claimed they were leaving Brussels and wouldn’t need the passes anymore. The catch? They wanted €5 for each. A steal, if you ask them. Of course, we were smarter than to fall for what was clearly a scam. There are several threads on Reddit discussing similar experiences.
In meme-lingo: Brussels is not for beginners.
But is it all grey and no green? Not at all. The Grand Place changes everything. Stepping out of the Bourse station—a short ride from Midi—we were greeted by a completely different Brussels. This was exactly the Belgium we’d imagined. The atmosphere was vibrant, and people seemed far more at ease. Or perhaps we just felt more at ease ourselves.
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Right outside the station stands the Place de la Bourse—a spectacular structure that once housed the Brussels Stock Exchange—overlooking one of the city’s major squares. The area has been pedestrianised, part of the administration’s effort to promote walkable zones across the city. And what a difference it makes. The place is a genuine joy to explore.
From there, we made our way to Brussels’ biggest tourist trap: Manneken Pis—the famous little boy peeing into a fountain. Why is it art? Not sure. But it’s definitely amusing, if a tad underwhelming in size. This tiny statue is apparently the best example of Belgian humour. Whatever the explanation, it draws crowds by the dozen. People queued to take pictures in front of the peeing boy. We did too, while chuckling at the absurdity of it all.
Then came the main event: the Grand Place—Brussels’ undisputed crown jewel. This place genuinely lives up to its Instagram reputation. The architecture is breathtaking, with golden facades and intricate detailing. The square was buzzing with life. A stage was being set up in the middle—possibly for a concert. We soaked it all in. Slowly. Deliberately. Taking dozens of the same photo from slightly different angles with our less-than-stellar phone cameras.
Interestingly, the vibe of the area includes the scent of fresh waffles and chocolate. We could practically inhale the chocolate. Resisting indulgence was futile. Oddly, the one thing we couldn’t find was a cup of hot chocolate. Apparently, September isn’t cold enough to justify it. Slightly heartbreaking, really. If you’re going to sell artisanal chocolate on every street corner, the least you can do is offer it in liquid form—year-round.
As night fell, we sat down for dinner at a diner overlooking the softly lit Place de la Bourse. The food? Comforting. The view? Gorgeous. The vibe? Just right. We stayed longer than intended, watching the square gradually settle into quiet.
By the time we finished dinner, it was well past 11 p.m. The chill had crept in, and we decided to walk back to the hotel. For the most part, the walk was scenic and calm—until it wasn’t. As we neared the hotel, we discovered the direct road was blocked off due to repair work, forcing us to take a detour down a dimly lit parallel street.
And just like that, the city’s earlier impression returned. It wasn’t exactly unsafe—but it didn’t feel entirely safe either. Let’s just say we picked up the pace. We passed a couple of drunks, some loud voices, and a few shadows that moved a little too quickly. No one bothered us, but I’ll admit—we were on edge.
In all fairness to Brussels, we were probably just being overly cautious. But would I take that same walk again at midnight, with luggage and a child in tow? Probably not.
So, here’s my take:
Brussels is wonderful—if you stick to the central areas. Explore the Grand Place. Walk the pedestrian streets. Eat your bodyweight in chocolate. But maybe book your stay a little farther from Brussels Midi. It’s a city worth experiencing, absolutely—but like a box of assorted Belgian chocolates, it’s best enjoyed when you know which flavours to avoid.
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